Jet Boat Ride to Real Fiji
While the first leg of the journey is based around tales of cannibalism and local agriculture, or "bulacrap" if guests fail to ask enough questions, the journey home is where we are treated to the real thrill ride.
Monday 29 January 2024 | 16:50
Life jacket demonstrations, high-speed turns and historic anecdotes; our jet boat adventure down Fiji's longest river ticks all the boxes for a standard thrill ride until our Sigatoka River Safari guide Josephine Traill - or Captain Fini - reveals that we now have three options.
"Low tide, high tide or tsunami?"
Captain Fini's not talking about the waters we're about to encounter on our return journey along the Sigatoka River back to the operator's headquarters deep in Sigatoka Valley.
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We're about to dive straight into a kava ceremony at a local village and the volume of the sedative beverage we request might affect how we experience the thrilling 360-degree turns to come.
"If you want to relax, go for the tsunami."
Muddy Liquid
The social and ceremonial drink derives from the roots of the kava plant, which is ground up, mixed with water and strained through fabric to make an earthy liquid.
The drink is known to numb the mouth, relax the body and calm the mind.
It has been used to treat anxiety and stress, and is currently being studied by the University of Waikato for its therapeutic potential in post traumatic stress disorder patients.
In a community hall, under the burning gaze of the village chief sitting to my right, I opt for the "high tide" and down an overflowing coconut shell of the stuff.
The muddy liquid, the same colour as the river we just sped down, tastes similar to aniseed and eventually leaves my tongue feeling like a weightless pound of flesh.
While one coconut is enough for me, the local men spend the rest of our two-hour visit knocking it back with gusto.
The kava ceremony is just a small part of the half-day river safari experience.
Glimpse Of A Life
The award-winning tour promises "a day in the life of the real kaiviti (Fijian)" and "a glimpse of life as it used to be."
The operator works alongside 18 villages deep in the interior of Fiji's main island Viti Levu with part of the ticket price helping with various projects.
Here at Tubaraita village, a steep walk up mud and concrete slabs from the riverbank, that might mean they can finally finish their landmark cinder block church - a project which has already taken 18 years.
Life is simple in Tubaraita. Around 280 people live either side of a large grass courtyard in bures built from concrete and wooden planks.
During a village walkthrough, we hear about the different dialect, how the entire village moved from one side of the river to the other for better road access, and how it later went underwater in the great flood of 1993.
The children are especially interested in our presence, shouting "bula bula!" as they follow our every step.
The village's skinny hunting dogs are also out in force.
The oldest male in our group, 67-year-old Derek from Canada, is designated our chief on arrival and has the task of handing over the newspaper-wrapped sevu sevu of kava root - an essential part of visiting any Fijian village.
He also expresses thanks to the village.
Following the village tour in sticky midday heat, we're soon back in the community hall for the provided lunch.
Presented on a length of fabric on the floor are all manner of tropical fruits - papaya, green bananas, watermelon - plus pork buns, Fijian doughnuts, plates of chicken, and jugs of sweet cordial.
It is custom for us visitors to eat first before the women of the village are called to clear the dishes.
It's astonishing to hear that men are still considered superior to women in Fiji, although all genders and ages can now take part in the kava ceremony.
Ladies Night
It's later mentioned that the women enjoy "ladies night" once the men have fallen asleep from over consumption.
If we weren't already hot enough, it's now time to take part in three traditional Fijian dances with the community.
Clapping, singing and thick guitar thrums echo through the space as locals muster us into conga lines.
Tourism Fiji hosted Stephen Heard on his jet boat safari tour.
Thankfully, the "air-conditioning" of the jet boat ride is still to come.
While the first leg of the journey is based around tales of cannibalism and local agriculture, or "bulacrap" if guests fail to ask enough questions, the journey home is where we are treated to the real thrill ride.
Captain Fini pushes the jet boat to its limit down the waterway, where horses can be seen cooling off, locals are washing their clothing and children are playing, before signalling with a circle gesture that we're about to complete a 360-degree spin.
Feedback: frederica.elbourne@fijisun. com.fj
